The invisible stitch, one of the best hand sewing stitches

The most-used hand-sewing stitch in my arsenal of stitches is the mighty “invisible stitch.” In my opinion, knowing this stitch plus a blind hem will pretty much set you up to tackle almost any hand stitching you may need to do in your sewing endeavors. I love this stitch and use it in so many different applications and it’s so easy that once you learn it, you’ll wonder how you lived without it! 

In my conductor cap pattern, the last step to completing the hat is an invisible stitch. This stitch invisibly closes up the little hole where the hat was turned out after sewing all the pieces together.

The first step is to make sure you have pressed your fabric(s) with an iron to ensure you have nice sharp crease(s) where you will be sewing. (You read my blog about pressing, right?) With my conductor cap, since you’re sewing the hat band to the brim, only the band is pressed under. The brim, obviously, doesn’t need pressing. For other uses, you may need to press both pieces. This stitch works especially well if a seam has come loose in your child’s favorite stuffed toy and the fluff is coming out. Just give it a little invisible stitch and it’s good as new!

Knot your thread and put the needle on the inside of the fabric so that it comes from the inside (wrong side) headed out so that the knot is now on the inside. Then, holding the two fabrics together (either by hand or pinned), slip the needle up and through the fold in the fabric you made when you pressed it. The sharp tip of the needle should come out about a quarter to half inch from where you inserted it (see photo). IMG_2654

Now you need to do the same on the other side of the opening. In the case of this hat, this will be the brim. Since the brim is two pieces of fabric sandwiched together, you’ll want to make sure that you don’t go through both layers, we want the thread completely inside the brim between layers so right where your needle came out of the upper layer of fabric, just put the needle into the other side a little bit and then poke it back up about a quarter to a half inch further.

Then we repeat, right where the thread comes out the bottom fabric (in this hat, the brim) you put it into the fold of the other side (the first side we started with – the hat band).


It sounds more complicated than it actually is. I drew a picture below. On the drawing the purple is the fabric and the dashed grey lines are the thread on the inside of the fabric. The solid grey lines are the thread on the outside of the fabric (though, on your fabric, it will be pulled tight and you won’t even see those threads. Let me know if you have any questions. Once you master it, you’ll find all sorts of uses for it!